Common problems · 1971–85
Pinzgauer 710 / 712 problems: 8 things to check
The problems owners and specialists flag most on the Steyr-Puch Pinzgauer 710 / 712, the repairs they end up doing and what those cost, plus the years and recalls to watch. Sourced, not scraped.
Pinzgauer 710 / 712 problems to check before you buy
- Hunt rust where the Alps hideThe SDP pre-purchase checklist lists the spots: both bottom corners of the air tunnel (sound-deadening foam holds water), the fuel filler neck, the doors (seams, bottoms and inside the window channels), the footwells under the diamond plates, behind the wooden rub rails, the bedside-to-tub seams and the rear door. Owners add the battery and tool boxes and the heat exchanger. Shiny paint over these areas proves nothing.
- Check the spring cups and swivel ballsThe upper spring cups rust through and make an ugly repair, so check them along with the limiting straps. Flaking or pitted plating on the front swivel balls is, in the SDP checklist's words, 'a costly repair.'
- Look for red flakes in the fuel filterRed flakes mean the fuel tank's lining is peeling. The checklist says 'be very careful!' and owners on the Portal Hub still ask about tanks that need stripping and relining.
- Run a compression testThe absolute numbers matter less than consistency. The SDP guide accepts 120–160 psi as long as the cylinders are within about 10 psi of each other, and warns that cylinder 4 (the rearmost) can have overheated. Some owners also do a leak-down test and look inside the oil filler tube for yellow, greasy residue.
- Engage everythingOn a test drive, try low and high range, front drive and both lockers. The SDP guide notes that disengaging sometimes takes a few left-right turns, which is normal. A locker that won't engage usually points to the hydraulics: old fluid, cracked rubber elbows or a seized slave bleeder.
- Get under it with a creeperLook for leaks at the portals, diffs, gearbox and transfer case. Some weeping is normal on a 40-year-old truck. Check for torn axle boots, and with the transfer case in neutral, feel for excessive backlash in the driveline. Oil inside a brake drum means a leaking wheel-drive seal.
- Drive it at speedIf it shakes, engage front drive. If the vibration stops, suspect driveshaft balance. If it doesn't, the wheels were probably never balanced: the SDP checklist says the Swiss didn't balance them. The rims are lug-centric, so a tire shop needs an adapter. Owners also describe a low rumble from the flexible front driveshaft that grows with mileage.
- Test the 24-volt electrics and the canvasOpen the black distribution box under the right rear corner and check for corrosion. Then check the dash breakers, the fuel and speed gauges (they can stick at zero or full) and the wiper motor. Look over the tarps too: replacing UV-damaged canvas is expensive.
The repairs Pinzgauer 710 / 712 owners end up doing
| REPAIR | SYMPTOMS | DIFFICULTY | TIME | COST |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Replace torn axle boots with split boots | Cracked, dry-rotted or shredded rubber boots where the swing half-axles leave the diffs, sometimes with gear oil pooling inside. Owners say the boots keep dust and water out and the oil in. | 2 / 5 | ≈ 25 minutes to 1 hour per split boot (2–3 hours per side for a one-piece rear boot) | About $54 per split boot at Swiss Army Vehicles (October 2026) |
| Renew the locker/4WD hydraulics: elbows, fluid and bleeding | Lockers or front drive that are slow to engage or won't engage at all, dark fluid in the reservoir, or seepage at the rubber elbows and T-piece under the reservoir. | 2 / 5 | ≈ An afternoon | Rubber elbow kit about $19 (710) or $24 (712) at Swiss Army Vehicles, plus DOT 3 |
| Rebuild the mechanical fuel pump | Long cranking after the truck has sat for a few days, getting worse over time, and a wet patch under the pump. | 2 / 5 | ≈ An evening (the write-up's author is not a mechanic) | Repair kit about $38 at Swiss Army Vehicles |
| Adjust the drum brakes (and renew tired wheel cylinders) | A long pedal, uneven braking, or a wet backing plate from a weeping wheel cylinder. | 2 / 5 | ≈ An afternoon for all four corners | Adjustment is free. A full cylinder set is about $379 (710) or $468 (712) at Swiss Army Vehicles |
| Set the valve lash | Clattering valvetrain, or simply an unknown service history. It's a routine job on this pushrod air-cooled engine. | 2 / 5 | ≈ Under 30 minutes with practice (SDP guide) | Four rocker-cover gaskets, about $26–49 a set |
| Free a stuck clutch or replace it | The engine runs, but no gear will engage after the truck has sat for months, because the disc has rusted to the flywheel or pressure plate. Or the clutch slips or grabs suddenly. | 4 / 5 | Big job: the gearbox comes out | Complete clutch kit about $408 at Swiss Army Vehicles |
| Replace rusted spring cups | Upper spring cups (and their studs) rusted through, because dirt and water collect in the cup on top of each coil. | 3 / 5 | ≈ 2 hours per corner, not counting painting (SDP / Expedition Imports) | Cups run about $140–200 each new. An aluminum rear upper upgrade is $159 |
| Adjust the driveshaft parking brake | The handbrake won't hold the truck on a slope. | 2 / 5 | Several rounds of trial and error | Adjustment is free. Disc with lining about $99 each (two per truck) |
Each repair links to a step-by-step guide with tools, part numbers and where to buy the parts.
Take the printable Pinzgauer 710 / 712 inspection checklist: every check on this page plus the model-specific ones, on one sheet. Get the checklist →
Sourced from owners, specialists and factory documents; full sources are on the Pinzgauer 710 / 712 guide. Verify torque figures and procedures against the factory service manual (disclaimer).