Symptoms
A clutch that slowly loses pressure, has to be double-pumped to shift without grinding, or a pedal that sinks. Look for fluid under the dash or around the slave on the bellhousing.
The fix, step by step
- Off-Road.com's FJ40 project, which shares the early clutch hydraulics with the FJ45, replaced the master, the slave and the hose.
- Pump the old fluid out.
- Unbolt the slave (two bolts), fit the new one with thread-locker and set the fork pushrod with its locknut.
- Free the old line with penetrating oil and flare-nut wrenches.
- Under the dash, pull the cotter pin and spring at the pedal, then remove the three 12 mm master bolts.
- Fit the new master with a new cotter pin, connect the line and don't overtighten the banjo bolt.
- Fill with DOT 3, bleed at the slave with a helper, then adjust the pedal rod and slave pushrod.
- Bench-bleed the new master, and keep the pedal down until the bleeder is closed.
- Check fitment by build date: Cruiser Corps lists this master for 1970–75 trucks and the slave for 1974–80.
Tools & part numbers
- 12 mm socket and wrench
- 12 mm and 16 mm flare-nut wrenches
- needle-nose pliers
- bleeder hose and bottle
- thread-locker
- DOT 3 fluid
Where to buy the parts
Aisin clutch master cylinder, FJ40/FJ45/FJ55 1970–75Cruiser Corps ↗Amazon ↗
Clutch release (slave) cylinder, FJ40/FJ45/FJ55 1974–80Cruiser Corps ↗Amazon ↗
OEM clutch master cylinder rebuild kitCruiser Corps ↗Amazon ↗
Hunting a used or discontinued part? Search eBay Motors for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45 / FJ55 parts →
Rated for a competent home mechanic with a decent tool kit. Confirm torque figures, fluids and procedures against the factory service manual for your VIN, support the truck on stands rather than a jack, and work at your own risk (disclaimer). Some parts links are affiliate links, which pay us a small commission at no cost to you.