Common problems · 1984–90

Ford Bronco II problems: 8 things to check

The problems owners and specialists flag most on the Ford Bronco II, the repairs they end up doing and what those cost, plus the years and recalls to watch. Sourced, not scraped.

Ford Bronco II problems to check before you buy

  1. Look for a cracked 2.9 head before anything elseThe Ranger Station says early North American 2.9 heads lost material around the valve guides and rocker pedestals, and some cracked after a single overheat. Symptoms are white exhaust smoke when warm, clean spark plugs, low compression on a cylinder, and milky residue on the oil cap or dipstick (check it warm, since condensation looks similar). Rectangular rocker pedestals and an 89TM casting mean the improved heads have been fitted.
  2. Listen to the valve trainOn the 2.9, oil reaches the lifters, rocker shaft and rockers through the two center cam bearings, so slight bearing wear can starve the top end. Loud clatter, especially after a long highway run, warrants an oil-pressure check. The Ranger Station's figures are about 20 psi at warm idle and 55 psi at 2,000 rpm. Coolant in the oil from a cracked head quickly wipes out those bearings.
  3. Hunt for water leaks and cowl rustThe cowl drains on 1984–88 trucks clog with leaves and rust through, putting water on the front carpet and in the glove box. The 1989–90 trucks got a mesh cowl. Every year leaks at the A-pillar and roof seam, the rear drip rail, the side-glass seals and behind the top of the hatch. A passenger floor that is always wet, rain or not, is usually the heater core.
  4. Judge the A4LD, especially on 1985–87 trucksThe Ranger Station rates 1985–87 A4LDs as the weakest, with reliability improving after the dual-solenoid change in mid-1988. Heat is the main killer. Look for dark or burnt fluid, slow or missing overdrive, and hard or erratic shifts, which can mean a ruptured vacuum modulator. Fluid in the modulator's vacuum line confirms it, and so does white exhaust smoke from ATF being drawn into the engine.
  5. Read the door sticker and the front axleThe certification label on the driver's door post carries axle and transmission codes, so you can confirm the ratio, a limited-slip rear and the original gearbox. Dana 28 axles have 12 cover bolts and date codes starting with E; the Dana 35 has a 10-bolt cover and F codes. Only 1990 trucks built after November 1989 left the factory with a Dana 35.
  6. Check the TTB and the hubsUneven tire wear points to tired beam pivot bushings, ball joints or radius-arm bushings, or a lift without camber correction. The Ranger Station advises checking the beam pivot bushings whenever the front end is apart. The factory automatic locking hubs become unreliable with age, and owners usually replace them with manual hubs.
  7. Is it really a 4x4?A 2WD Bronco II often has what looks like a transfer case, the BW1359 pass-through, so look for a front driveshaft, a front differential and a shifter or Touch-Drive buttons. Also look for 2WD-to-4WD conversions, which are common. Check the quality of the swapped axle, the driveshafts and the transfer-case linkage.
  8. Run the recalls and question the modificationsNHTSA lists campaigns for locking-hub cams (1984), seat-belt anchors (1984), fuel lines and an EEC harness short (1986), handling-warning stickers on the sun visor (1987) and missing front wheel-bearing keys (1989). Ford blamed many rollovers on unsafe modifications. Treat a tall lift on a narrow 94-inch truck with suspicion and ask how it was engineered.

The repairs Ford Bronco II owners end up doing

REPAIRSYMPTOMSDIFFICULTYTIMECOST
Replace cracked 2.9 cylinder headsWhite smoke when warm, clean spark plugs, low compression on one or more cylinders, coolant loss with no external leak, or milky "snot" on a warm dipstick or oil cap.4 / 5≈ 1–2 daysParts plus machine-shop inspection
Replace 2.8 valve stem seals without pulling the headsBlue smoke on start-up or overrun, and oil consumption on a high-mileage 2.8. The Ranger Station says the original rubber valve seals deteriorate and leak oil into the cylinders.3 / 5≈ 4–6 hoursUnder the price of a set of seals plus an air adapter
Reseal leaking valve coversOil weeping down the heads onto the exhaust manifolds, a burning-oil smell after a drive, an oily engine bay.2 / 5≈ 1–2 hoursParts only
Replace or relocate the TFI ignition moduleThe engine dies or won't restart when hot, then runs again after it cools down, without leaving a trace of the fault.2 / 5≈ 30 minutes (replace) · 2–3 hours (relocate)Parts plus a donor heat sink
Service the A4LD, replace the modulator and add a coolerDark or burnt-smelling fluid, slipping, no overdrive, hard or erratic shifts, a missing 1–2 shift or third gear, or white exhaust smoke from ATF being drawn through a ruptured modulator.2 / 5≈ 2–3 hoursParts plus fluid
Refresh the TTB front end and set camberTires wearing on the inside or outside edge, clunks over bumps, wandering, or play when you rock the wheel top to bottom.3 / 5≈ 4–6 hours plus an alignmentParts plus an alignment
Find and seal water leaksA wet front floor, water in the glove box, drips from the headliner just behind the windshield, a wet cargo carpet, fogged windows and a musty smell.2 / 5≈ 1–8 hours depending on the leakSeam sealer plus any parts
Fix a liftgate that won't releaseYou turn the handle, feel resistance and a click, and the tension lets go without the gate opening, or it only opens if you push on the handle while turning it.1 / 5≈ 30 minutesOne washer

Each repair links to a step-by-step guide with tools, part numbers and where to buy the parts.

Years with known problems

YEARSFLAGWHAT TO KNOW
1986BewareFuel-injected 2.9 Cologne V6 (140 hp); Mitsubishi 2.3 turbodiesel offered; Touch-Drive electric-shift transfer case late in the year. The Ranger Station says 1986–88 2.9 heads are known to crack, and rates 1985–87 A4LD automatics the least reliable.
1987BewareRear-wheel ABS standard; 2WD sales begin in earnest (22,286 sold per NHTSA). Still crack-prone 2.9 heads and the early A4LD, which The Ranger Station's builder's guide says to stay away from.

Every Ford Bronco II model year, with the best ones to buy →

Ford Bronco II recalls and service bulletins

Check any VIN for open recalls at nhtsa.gov/recalls ↗, or see the recall tracker.

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Take the printable Ford Bronco II inspection checklist: every check on this page plus the model-specific ones, on one sheet. Get the checklist →

Sourced from owners, specialists and factory documents; full sources are on the Ford Bronco II guide. Verify torque figures and procedures against the factory service manual (disclaimer).

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